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Yes, all products on the website are in stock and ready to ship from our warehouse in Southern California. Sold out items are marked and cannot be ordered.
Orders are usually shipped out within 24 hours except on weekends. All orders placed before 8AM Pacific time will ship the same day otherwise they will ship on the next business day.
For USPS priority, it will usually arrive in 1-3 business days but it is not guaranteed.
For Fedex SmartPost, final delivery is done by your United States Postal Service mail carrier. It will usually arrive in 3-10 business days but it is not guaranteed.
For Fedex Ground, it will usually arrive in 1-5 business days. For residential locations, Fedex will deliver Tuesday-Saturday and for business locations, Fedex will deliver Monday-Friday. Please refer to the chart below for ground delivery times.
For Fedex Express, depending on the service chosen it will arrive in 1-3 business days. Fedex Express only delivers Monday-Friday; we do not offer Saturday delivery service. If you are not sure please Contact Us to get the exact date of arrival.
Due to the nature of RC products, the manufacturers do not offer warranty. We offer a 15 day warranty that covers DOA (Dead On Arrival) and factory defects only. We do not offer warranty on any products beyond that timeframe.
Please refer to the Shipping and Returns page for our return/exchange policy.
We do not accept checks or money orders. We currently accept Visa, Mastercard, Discover, American Express and Paypal.
We currently do not ship to APO or FPO addresses.
We currently only ship to the US and Canada.
We do not offer a print catalog but all items we carry are listed on our website and updated daily.
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There is no need to contact us about these temporary authorizations.
You should be aware that all temporary authorization charges will temporarily reduce the account's available credit by the anticipated amount.
For more information, please contact your bank or credit card company about how temporary transactions work and affect you as a credit card holder.
In order to properly control your helicopter, the remote must be trimmed during flight to control the spin of the helicopter. Every model has a trim function. It is either a knob in the middle of the remote, two buttons on the top left and right of the remote, or two buttons below the right hand stick. Please refer to your manual for the exact location. If the helicopter spins clockwise turn the knob to the left or press the left trim button(up to 15 times) until the helicopter stabilizes. If the helicopter spins counter-clockwise turn the knob to the right or press the right trim button (up to 15 times) until the helicopter stabilizes.
You should never put a higher voltage battery than the helicopter was designed to use. Higher voltage will damage the electronics and may result in fire or serious injury.
For milliamps (mAh), usually you can upgrade to a slightly higher mAh and it will give you slightly longer flight times. Please remember when upgrading a battery higher mAh means it has more capacity but it is also larger and heavier. If the battery is too heavy the helicopter will be sluggish and it will take more power to lift the helicopter causing shorter flight times. It is a tradeoff but in general helicopters like the Esky Belt CP and King series will benefit from a higher mAh battery such as an 1800 or 2200 mAh battery. Also our Xtreme batteries are designed to give slightly more flight time for 4 channel Esky helicopters. We do not recommend using batteries that are not designed for your helicopter.
The 3.5ch RC helicopter with gyro is similar to standard 3ch helicopter except the 3.5ch RC helicopter has a built in gyroscope that auto adjusts the yaw (left or right tail swing) movement to stabilize the flight. With the gyroscope feature it will be much easier to control your helicopter.
Unfortunately this is a misprint in the Syma manual. The older models may have had this feature but all current models do not have this feature. The way to adjust the trim is to use the remote. There are no user configurable controls on the helicopter itself.
The Syma models were manufactured to be easy to assemble at the factory but not so easy to unassemble for repair.
Inner Shaft Replacement
First, please make sure the entire shaft needs to be replaced. In most instances the upper portion holding the balance bar and upper rotors is all that needs to be replaced. If this is the case just unscrew the 2 screws holding the plastic portion to the metal shaft and transfer the blades, grips, and balance bar from the old part to the new part and screw it back onto the helicopter.
If the inner shaft is bent or has fallen out of the main gear, first remove the main blade/balance bar assembly from the helicopter by unscrewing the screws holding it onto the inner shaft. After removing the upper blades slide the shaft out from under the helicopter. If there are landing skids or other compenents in the way, you must remove them first. The gear at the bottom is usually glued onto the shaft. The shaft can just be pulled off the gear but it requires some force. To install the new one please use hobby glue or any other type of glue that can resist vibrations. We suggest using gorilla glue but please make sure to let it set for at least 24 hours before flying.
Balance Bar Replacement
For the balance bar, unless you have a special tool, we recommend using wire snips to cut the old balance bar off. After cutting off the balance bar, the pin should be easy to remove and the pin can be used to install the new one.
Update: Some of the 2011+ models of Syma helicopters have a screw that can be unscrewed for the balance bar making replacement easier.
The new Syma S031 and S032 models have a safety feature to prevent the helicopter from taking off unexpectedly. To properly initialize the remote, make sure both the remote and the helicopter are off. Next, make sure the throttle stick (left hand stick) is all the way down. Turn on the remote, then make sure the helicopter is on a flat level surface and turn on the helicopter. If the remote is blinking, push the throttle stick quickly up all the way and put it back down all the way immediately. The helicopter should now be initialized.
The new Syma S032 models have a tail motor speed button on the bottom right hand side of the remote. Please make sure to toggle this switch to change how fast the helicopter moves forward and back.
Most of the models we carry on our site only come with 1 connect buckle, this is by design from the factory. The helicopter may look like there is another connector for the connect buckle but this is so it is easier to assemble so it can be installed in either orientation during manufacturing. The helicopter is designed to only use one connect buckle. There are only a few helicopters at this time that come with two but in most cases only one is needed for flight.
The tail propeller on 3 channel and 3.5 channel helicopters will only work when the helicopter is in the air AND the forward or backwards control (up and down on the right hand control stick) is pressed up or down. If it does not work in the air then it may be defective.
Here is a current list of Syma models we have manuals for:
|Model||Link to download|
Helicopter flight problems can be from many different reasons but here are the most common issues.
1) Check the gears to be sure nothing is blocking them from spinning at full speed. Common problems are carpet fibers and hair.
2) The next thing to check is the grip set. To do this you would turn the helicopter off. Then hold onto the gears and try to spin the blades. If you are able to rotate the blades, your grip set will either need to be tightened, reglued, or replaced. The most common issue is the bottom grip sets on the smaller sized helicopters coming loose.
3) If the above methods do not work, it is most likely the motors or battery. Motors often wear out after use and if your helicopter has decreased power, it is usually caused by worn out motors that need to be replaced. Motors should always be replaced in pairs. Make sure to also check the motor wiring for loose or crimped connections.
For batteries, if you have a voltage meter, a fully charged 3.7v battery should read approximately 4 volts. If it below 3 volts, it is damaged and needs to be replaced. For a 7.4v battery, a fully charged battery should read aproximately 8 volts. If it below 6 volts, it is damaged and needs to be replaced.
Batteries should never be swollen or hot. If they feel puffy or get extremely warm the battery is damaged and needs to be replaced.
You should also check the voltage to make sure it is within specs. To check the battery you must use a voltage meter. Put the positive lead on the red battery wire and the negative lead on the black battery wire and you should get a voltage reading. A fully charged 3.7v battery should read approximately 4-4.2 volts. If it below 3 volts, it is damaged and needs to be replaced. For a 7.4v battery, a fully charged battery should read aproximately 8-8.4 volts. If it below 6 volts, it is damaged and needs to be replaced.
WARNING: We sell replacement batteries for people who have some knowledge of electrical repairs.
Lipo batteries are dangerous if handled improperly and we will not be held responsible for any damage that may occur.
If you have a soldering iron, you will need to use a pointed tip to solder because the soldering points are very small. Heat the joint to remove the wires and use a desoldering braid to remove the old solder residue. Solder the new battery in place.
If you do not have a soldering iron, you can cut the wires from the old battery with enough slack to attach the new battery. Strip the wires on each side and twist them together and use electrical tape to insulate the connection. It is not ideal to use this method, but it has been used successfully to repair a helicopter.
WARNING: We sell replacement motors for people who have some knowledge of electrical repairs. We will not be held responsible for any damage that may occur from installation.
If you have a soldering iron, you will need to use a pointed tip to solder because the soldering points are very small. Heat the joint to remove the wires and use a desoldering braid to remove the old solder residue. Solder the new motor in place.
If you do not have a soldering iron, you can cut the wires from the old motor with enough slack to attach the new motor. Strip the wires on each side and twist them together and use electrical tape to insulate the connection. It is not ideal to use this method, but it has been used successfully to repair a helicopter.
If the helicopter is infrared, the channels can be changed to fly more than one at a time. Some models have a, b, and c channels and others only have a and b.
If your remote has a 2 position switch you can only fly 2 at a time and if it has a 3 position switch you can fly up to 3 at a time.
Please click here for more information on changing channels, it is for the S107 but applies to all syma mini helicopters.
If the helicopter is radio controlled (has an antenna on remote), it must be on different frequencies to fly simultaneously. Many of our models only come in one frequency so they will not be able to fly together at the same time.
The toilet bowl effect is usually caused by one of two problems. The first is the connect buckles are missing or the connect buckle is snapped on too far and has gone past the ball joint it is supposed to sit on.
Please check the connect buckle to make sure that it is there and it is snapped into place and not pressed on too far.
The second problem is the holder on the inner shaft that holds the upper main blade grip may be broken off. This will cause one blade to sit lower than the other and cause this effect but it is often very hard to see or tell. You may have to remove the main blades and the grips to check the posts for the grips are there and not broken off. If one of them is broken it will need to be replaced.
Please note that this remote is a little hard to navigate for the beginner. Below is a table of LEFT ROW, RIGHT ROW, and VALUE. This corresponds to the remotes set up, hold down the MENU button for a few seconds and MODE will blink the value 2 at the bottom, push mode one more time to enter the menu. SUB will be blinking in one Column and ELEV in the other, use the select button to navigate the menu in the SUB category (i.e. ELEV-AILE-THRO-RUDD). Then push the menu button to go to the next category (D/R) and use the select button again to navigate through this category (i.e. ELEV-AILE-RUDD) just like before, keep doing so to set all values.
|Left Row||Right Row||Value||Comments|
|ELEV||D/R||100%||D/R ON "S" IS 40%|
|AILE||D/R||100%||D/R ON "S" IS 40%|
|RUDD||D/R||100%||D/R ON "S" IS 40%|
|ELEV||REV||REV||REV stands for Reverse|
|THRO||REV||NOR||NOR stands for Normal|
|ELEV||EPA-F||100%||EPA stands for End Point Adjustment|
|THRO||TRI-0||0%||TRI stands for control point adjustment|
Double Horse 9116 Binding Procedure
The Double Horse 4 channel 9116 helicopter has one of the most advanced digital 2.4ghz remotes on the market. Due to the many adjustable functions and settings on this remote, binding it can sometimes be a bit tricky.
There are two things that will prevent you from successfully binding your 9116 remote. One is timing, and the other is throttle position. Due to the advanced features of this remote there are multiple settings that effect the throttle position. Please note that we have all the default settings listed in Question 1.
The first and most common problem is the throttle trim setting that sits vertically adjacent to the throttle stick. Even though the LCD screen indicates that the trim is in the center position, it may not be. This is due to the fact that every bar on the LCD screen indicates 10 position adjustments. In other words, only one bar will appear for every 10 times you adjust the button. This trim MUST be in the center position to properly bind with your helicopter. The only indicator of center position is one long beep as opposed to the short beeps for all other positions.
If this did not help in binding your remote, then some of your settings may have been changed. If this is the case please refer to our Default Settings in Question 1. The menu settings that you will need to pay most attention to are the following:
THRO - SUB - Should be at value: 000
THRO - REV - Should be at value: NOR
THRO - TRI 0 - Should be at value: 000%
If all of your settings are correct and you are still not able to bind you remote to your 9116 helicopter, it may be due to timing. The correct binding sequence is to first turn on your remote control and then to turn on the power switch to the helicopter. Please keep in mind that from the time you turn on the remote, you only have approximately 4 seconds to turn the helicopter switch on. I advise that you do the whole procedure as fast as possible. Please keep in mind as well that because the 9116 has a built in GYRO the helicopter must be flat on a level surface to properly initialize.
To properly sync your 9025 remote control please follow the following procedure:
NOTE: There is a red switch above the battery compartment. The top position is the DEFAULT and the lower position is RESET. It should remain on DEFAULT.
All Esky helicopters come from the factory properly set. Please do not adjust these settings unless you are aware of what these settings do. We suggest that you do not change them. The correct default settings for each model are listed below.
Default servo reverser settings:
|4 channel co-axial||REV||REV||NOR||NOR|
|6 channel (Belt CP V2, HBK 2/3)||NOR||REV||NOR||REV|
|Honey Bee 2||REV||NOR||NOR||REV|
|Honey Bee CP3||REV||REV||NOR||REV|
The simulator software that comes with the helicopter is freeware and openly available on the internet for download. If you are having problems with the software we suggest downloading the latest version from http://modelsimulator.com/.
We do not provide support for this software. The software was designed to only run on Windows 95/98/ME/2000/XP. Currently there is no solution for mac users. For support and other questions please visit the forums here: http://modelsimulator.com/forum/
If you have Windows Vista or Windows 7, there are workarounds discussed in the forums here: http://modelsimulator.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=12.
If you have FMS already running here is a quick start to get it running. Go to Controls->Analog Control->Highlight Joystick Interface and click mapping and calibration.
The settings should be as follows for the Esky Simulator Remote:
The gain increases/decreases the gyro sensitivity and the proportion controls the speed ratio between the upper and lower rotors. The controls are used to stabilize the helicopter.
If the helicopter's tail seems to wag while it is in the air it means the gain setting is too high and needs to be turned down.
The proportion can be used if your helicopter is spinning to the left and right and the trim does not correct it.
To start you should set both of them to the lowest setting and gradually increase each of them separately in small increments to set it to the correct setting.
This usually means that the swashplate needs to be leveled.
To start reset all the trims except the throttle(throttle trim should always be down) to the center postion.
Unscrew each servo arm and reset the arms to 90 degrees.
Next, level out the swashplate using the servo control arm linkages. Snap whichever linkage that needs to be adjusted off the swashplate ball and turn it clockwise to shorten and counterclockwise to lengthen the arm and snap it back on. Adjust each servo linkage until the swashplate is completely level.
It does not have to be perfect but it should be pretty close to level using your eyes to level it out. After leveling it out try to fly the helicopter and use the remote's trim tabs to fine tune the helicopter.
Mode 1 means the throttle is on the right hand stick and Mode 2 means the throttle is on the left hand stick. Mode 2 is the most commonly used configuration in the North America, Europe, Africa, and Australia. Mode 1 is mainly used in Japan and a few countries in Asia. All of the models we carry are Mode 2.
The 6 channel models all come with a trainer toggle switch on the upper right side of the remote and a trainer port on the back of the remote. The port is designed to be used when learning to fly with an instructor. The port on the back can connect to another remote using esky part# 000500. The instructor can "hand off" the controls to a student transmitter by holding the toggle and get back control by releasing it.
Idle up is the stunt or 3d flying mode for the transmitter. It is not for beginners and we strongly recommend you read about it thoroughly and learn from someone who has experience flying in 3D mode.
For normal flying, it should be in the N position or away from you. When idle up is turned on the blades will spin at full throttle the entire time (please be careful). The throttle at center stick will make the pitch of the blades 0 degrees. The throttle stick all the way up will be max pitch and all the way down will be the min pitch.
Never start idle up from a standstill, it will grind all the teeth off the main gears.
The gyro switch controls the mode of the gyro during flight. When the gyro switch is in the up position(0), it is in heading hold mode and when it is in the down position(1), it is in rate mode.
Heading hold mode tries to keep the helicopter pointing in the same direction (unless it gets input from the user). If the wind or something turns the helicopter, the gyro will correct until it is pointed back to the original direction again.
Rate mode tries to keep the heli from turning without concern for the specific direction it's pointing. If the wind or something turns the helicopter, the gyro will correct only until it stops turning regardless of what direction it ends up pointing.
Heading hold is the more stable of the two so we suggest setting the switch to up or the 0 position.
Power indicator- Constantly red light, means the power is connected.
Charging indicator- Green light flashing, means battery is charging.
If the red and green light are flashing this means there is something wrong with the battery. You should purchase a new battery.
If the light is constantly green, the charging has completed.
Xtreme blades have are designed to be stronger and create more lift then the OEM blades. The increased lift requires less power from the motor giving you slightly extended flying times. The blades are also much harder and will not shatter on impact giving you more durability in the long run.
The Xtreme Direct Drive Motor does not come with a mark to denote positive or negative on the motor itself. For this reason we recommend just soldering the the red and black wires to the tail motor in any order. After you have finished assembly and if the tail is not spinning in the correct direction, just flip the connector for the tail motor on the 4 in 1 and it should reverse the direction.